The Corydalis (Corydalis) is a typical herbaceous species. It grows in the Northern Hemisphere, in areas with a temperate climate. From Latin "corydalis" means "helmet". This name was given in accordance with the shape of the flowers that resemble a helmet.

Today, there are 320 different species of Corydalis in the world. Most of them (about 200 species) grow in the Himalayas, Western, Central China. Here they are located quite high, at an altitude of 3 to 5 km above sea level.

Corydalis has been cultivated only since the 19th century. Now the plant is on a par with flowers such as tulips and phlox in popularity. They attract with aesthetic appearance, resistance to frost, diseases, pests. Possesses healing properties. In addition, the Corydalis is absolutely unpretentious in care and can decorate any flower garden.

Corydalis flower description

In the genus Corydalis, there are annuals and perennials. They have a powerful, strong root system with multiple branches. At the ends of the branches, in some cases, tubers appear in the form of a ball. They contain nutrients.

Stems reach a height of 15 to 45 cm in height, erect. At the base of the plant, from 2 to 4 leaves are formed, similar to a fern. Leaves are complex. They have several lobules in the shape of a triangle and a circle. Each slice has its own stalk.

In the middle of spring, brushes in the form of cylinders are formed on the shoots. Each of them has from 5 to 35 elongated flowers of violet-lilac, white, yellow, pink shades.

Corolla is small: from 1.5 to 2.5 cm. Bracts are large enough. Sepals are thin and pointed. Each flower has a spur. It contains flower nectar, which can only be reached by insects with proboscis.

The Corydalis has fruits. They are elongated graceful capsules containing small, black seeds. Having fallen to the ground, they become a delicacy for the ants, which drag it to their homes.

The plant begins its growth in March. The beginning of flowering occurs at a time when the soil warms up enough, up to 3-4 degrees Celsius. Flowering is short - 21 days. In early summer, the seeds ripen. After that, the part of the plant on the surface dies off.

Corydalis is widely used in landscape design. The flower combines perfectly with many other ornamental plants, creating unique compositions.

Corydalis. Perennial flowers.

Planting corydalis in the open field

When to plant a crested

Tubers for planting are acquired, as a rule, from the beginning of summer until September, inclusive. At the same time, it is recommended to plant the Corydalis in open ground. Purchased tubers must be carefully examined. Suitable tubers are juicy, strong and dense. The slight dryness of the tubers does not have a harmful effect exclusively on the species characteristic of Central Asia.

The requirements for the crested corydalis planting site are determined depending on the acquired plant species. So, crested forest loves places without bright sunlight, with loose soils. And the Chinese and Alpine prefer a lot of sunlight, sandy loam soils, with good drainage. As for the level of acidity of the soil, neutral or slightly acidic is perfect.

How to plant a crested

Planting the corydalis in the open field is a simple process and does not take much time. Of course, the condition of the soil must be considered. In some cases, digging is carried out. For example, crushed stone or gravel (only fine) is introduced into dense, heavy soils.

Important! In the process of planting the corydalis, you should think in advance about creating a drain for excess water, since plants do not like excess moisture: rot may appear.

The depth of the tubers directly depends on their size. So, small tubers are placed at a level of 5 to 7 cm deep, larger ones at a depth of 10 to 15 cm. After planting the plant, moderate watering is required.

Crested Crested Care in the Garden

Corydalis growing outdoors requires proper care. It includes: watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, weeding, prophylaxis to protect against diseases, pests.

Watering and feeding

When watering, take into account the period of time and the type of plant. So, in early spring, after the snow has melted, it is not necessary to water the corydalis. When the melting is over, moderate watering is carried out. Some types of flower tolerate drought better. These include: Alpine, Desert Corydalis. They need less moisture than other "relatives". In any case, it is worth remembering that excessive watering can provoke moisture stagnation and cause root rot. To avoid this, the soil must have good drainage.

After each watering of a flower, the earth is weeded and loosened. It also prevents moisture stagnation. In addition, the soil must provide sufficient oxygen for the plant to grow and develop fully.

If mulching is carried out (preferably organic) - watering, weeding, loosening should be carried out much less frequently.

Corydalis does not require additional feeding. Only when growing a forest species, they dig up the soil with humus or compost.

When the plant has bloomed, and the ground part has turned yellow and died, the site is fenced. For example, pegs. Corydalis survives the winter well, and therefore it is not necessary to additionally cover it. The only Corydalis, sensitive to frost, is Chinese. Already at a temperature of -23 degrees, the flower begins to freeze.

Transplant and reproduction

Corydalis easily tolerates the transplant procedure. It is carried out even during periods of active flowering. However, at this time it is worth doing it especially carefully and carefully. This is due to the possibility of separation of the ground part from the root system. In this case, the tubers will simply go dormant.

The crested flower is transplanted to a new place along with an earthen lump.

Plant propagation is carried out using:

  • tubers;
  • rhizomes;
  • seeds.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the formation of tubers occurs only in a few species: the Kashmirian corydalis and the Bush's corydalis, so it is not common. The division of the root system is carried out either in the spring or in the second half of the summer. On a separated rhizome, one renewal bud must be present. The separated parts are called “delenki”.

A flower is planted in the ground to a depth of 5 to 15 cm. The depth level is determined in accordance with the size of the separated part: the larger it is, the deeper it is located. Be sure to keep the distance between the holes - 10 cm, so that each plant has enough space for growth and development.

With the seed propagation method, slightly unripe seeds are used. As a rule, they have already acquired a black tint and are located in a green seed pod.

Important! At this stage, when collecting seeds, you need to be extremely careful not to miss the moment of collecting unripe seeds. The boxes should not have time to open. Otherwise, the seeds will fall to the ground and get to the ants. In addition, seeds quickly (after a week) lose their germination properties. Therefore, it is not recommended to hesitate with sowing.

The collected corydalis seeds are placed in separate containers, these can be small peat pots, in a pre-moistened soil. Leave in a shady place. Be sure to check the degree of soil moisture, since the plants do not tolerate drought.

Corydalis are planted on the garden plot only next spring. Flowering depends on the type of plant. It usually begins to bloom between 2 and 4 years after planting.

Corydalis diseases and pests

The Corydalis has excellent immunity, and therefore diseases are rare. As mentioned above, with stagnant water in the ground, rot may form. This is fraught with the loss of the entire flower, since rot affects, in this case, the root system.

As for viruses, many crops are susceptible to them, including the corydalis. It is important to detect the infection in time and immediately remove the infected parts of the plant. As a rule, the affected parts are burned, and the place of growth is thoroughly disinfected by treating with a solution of potassium permanganate. It should be strong enough, saturated, to eliminate viruses that may remain in the soil.

If a fungal infection occurs, fungicides are used.

The list of pests is rather modest: only mice and moles are dangerous. It is easy to deal with them with the help of special poisoned baits.

Types and varieties of corydalis with a photo

Now - a little about the existing species and varieties of the corydalis. As mentioned in the introduction, 320 species have been discovered to date. They can be subdivided according to the environmental requirements that determine the rules for the cultivation of the plant.

The most unpretentious, undemanding to care for are forest crested beetles. Among them are the Corydalis:

  • Bush.
  • Marshall;
  • Low;
  • Intermediate;
  • Narrow-leaved;
  • and many others.

These varieties love sandy loam soils enriched with either humus or humus, as well as clay soils. They can be grown in a wide variety of places: in a garden, open area, and in meadows, among the grass, and in flower beds. The most popular variety in this group is Haller's corydalis, or, another name, dense.

In Russian conditions, mountain crested species (Himalayan) are more demanding in terms of care:

  • Kashmir;
  • Emanuel;
  • Gray;
  • Wilson;
  • Marakand
  • and many others.

Rhizome perennial corydalis are represented: yellow, gray-yellow, noble.

Among the crested beetles, there is also an annual crop. However, they are much less common than perennials. These include: touchy, crested evergreen.

Some time ago, new species from the Sichuan region of China were added to the culture of European gardens. The most demanded ones:

  • Balang Mist - with flowers of a light blue, heavenly shade;
  • Pearl Leaf - with rich red, purple foliage. The stems have dark red dots at the very base;
  • Blue Panda - with azure-colored flowers and pale green leaves;
  • China Blue - with elongated petals of a greenish-azure hue and green-brown foliage.

Thus, the corydalis is one of the most beautiful garden plants. In general, the Corydalis is unpretentious to care, growing a flower will be within the power of even a novice florist.

Most species do not require additional feeding. The plant tolerates low temperatures, does not require special shelter or transfer to another place. Also, it has excellent immunity from diseases. Rarely affected by pests.

Observing the simple rules of caring for the crested hen, you can get a beautiful, ornamental plant that adorns the landscape. Corydalis is good both separately and in composition with other flowers.

A site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.

Until now, there is no common understanding among geneticists of what causes the phenomenon of double flowers in plants. It remains an unsolved mystery, and like any mystery, it attracts both specialists and amateurs. And here in Russia, a double flower will always be preferred.

What, in my opinion, stands out among the new double-flowered varieties? The first novelties, which I would definitely like to dwell on, are two varieties of terry shrub cinquefoil, which we received from Finland, and the Finns, in turn, from the USA, from Bailey Nurseries, Inc.

It would seem, well, Potentilla and Potentilla, what can be special about them? However, they are really a bomb!

Quite large flowers (more than 2.5 cm in diameter!) Are really double, there are more than 10 petals in the corolla of each flower. The variety Citrus Tart petals are dazzling golden yellow, collected in beautiful cups, and the variety Lemon Meringue (Lemon Meringue) the petals are flatter, but they are also abundant and have an attractive creamy lemon color. There are a lot of flowers, new ones constantly open to replace the wilted ones. The leaves are also decorative - large and densely planted, they are also covered with grayish pubescence. Due to this pubescence, the foliage acquired a bluish-gray tint and became a very advantageous background for numerous bright flowers. Both varieties form charming rounded bushes 50-60 cm high and wide.

They are quite dense and very good in any scene of the landscape. For abundant flowering, it is better to plant them in a sunny place in a structured nutrient soil.

A lot of novelties are added to the collection of unusual and spectacular plants by Terranova Nurseries. The bill goes to several dozen annually. And huge areas of open and closed ground and meristem laboratories allow making any novelty affordable and multiplying it in the required quantity within six months.

I will give examples of echinacea. Of the proven varieties of recent years - varieties of the Secret series, especially Secret Lustand also golden terry Pineapple Sundae... Plants in the north-west of Russia cannot be called low-maintenance and easy to cultivate. Since the homeland of natural species of echinacea is the prairies of America, they develop best in conditions of dry cool continental winters and dry, very long hot summers, mild autumn and rather humid spring. In our damp autumn-winter months, the plants should be protected from waterlogging, and in the summer they should be well fed and watered.

It is also advisable to divide and plant the bushes quite often with the deepening of the replacement buds growing upwards in order to protect them from bulging and freezing during a snowless winter. But the fantastic spectacle of almost tropical luxury that these delightful beauties give us most of the summer justifies all the efforts to care for them.

Another marvelous novelty from the Terranova company - chamomile Luna... In recent years, a lot of terry daisies have appeared on the flower market, but this variety is perhaps the best. He is the most compact, and the most abundant blooming, and the most extraordinary in petal color. Each of them has a light transparent lime blur, and is bordered by a thin golden line along the edge. As a result, the illusion of the inner glow of each double flower is created. The shoots are low - not higher than 30 cm, but very strong, they rise from the ground in a slightly open fan, never falling apart or drooping. It blooms very profusely and has shown good overwintering.

Many times breeders have tried to create ideal delphiniums - a very desirable culture! But there was always something lacking for the varieties to be called ideal - the flowers are either not double enough, sometimes too large, sometimes too small, or the inflorescence is small in relation to the total height of the plant.

But the main reproach to all old varieties and variety varieties is fragile flower stalks, as a result of which any vagaries of the weather disfigured the planting of delphiniums - rain and wind poured tall inflorescences. Each had to be propped up, and even that didn't always help.

Scottish breeder Tony Coackley changed everything. I must say that he started absolutely from scratch, not having the slightest knowledge not only of plant breeding and genetics, but generally of plant care.

He was and still is an electronic inspector at a firm that sells military equipment.Gardening became his hobby 20 years ago when he and his wife, Maureen, bought a house with a garden. Delphiniums turned out to be a culture that did not immediately succumb to Tony, and he wanted to bite through the "tough nut". For breeding a series Highlander Tony and Maureen have spent 16 years!

But now not a single garden exhibition is complete without an exposition of Coakley's novelties, in the photo there are varieties from this series.

What makes these hybrids different from other delphiniums? Flowers of all varieties of the series are densely pompom-double, filling the inflorescence quite tightly. The inflorescences are very large, sometimes almost half the length of the entire shoot (with a total shoot length of 120-150 cm, the inflorescence is 80 cm long!). Peduncles are very strong, grow almost vertically, only slightly diverging from the ground in a half-open fan. Only a very strong wind with rain can put the plant down.

But unlike the old varieties Coakley's delphiniums can be held by a circular common support on one leg, without tying each stem separately. None of the varieties in the series sets seeds, crumbling cleanly after flowering. If you cut off the faded peduncles and feed the bushes, then very quickly the plant drives out a new wave of peduncles and soon blooms again. Depending on the climate and the duration of the frost-free period, such waves can be 2 and 3. The leaves of the new series delphiniums are more resistant to powdery mildew, which often disfigures the leaves of old varieties, especially if it rains frequently.

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      • Beans
      • Black garlic
      • Garlic
    • Landing
    • Garden care
      • Urea fertilizer

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Planting hyacinths

Hyacinths look good against a daffodil background. Photo: The Sacramento Bee

Growing hyacinths starts with planting, and successful cultivation depends entirely on growing conditions, so you need to choose the right place to plant from the very beginning.

The place for hyacinths should be sunny, with a rich fertile soil of a neutral reaction. The acidic soil is not suitable for hyacinths, so it must be limed six months before planting the flowers. Light sandy loam soil rich in humus is recommended.

It is not recommended to plant hyacinths near large trees: firstly, the shade, and secondly, the trees will take all the nutrients for themselves and the hyacinths will bloom poorly.

Like peonies, hyacinths do not like waterlogging - the site must be elevated enough so that it is not flooded with melt and rainwater after heavy rains.

The area intended for hyacinths must be prepared in advance - dig up, fertilize, remove weeds, etc. Fresh manure should not be applied!

First decade of October considered optimal for planting hyacinths. Remember, hyacinth bulbs have a very short rooting period, so if hyacinths are planted too early, they will start growing and be destroyed by frost.

To disinfect hyacinth bulbs, it is recommended to soak for half an hour in light pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The optimum planting depth depends on the size of the hyacinth bulbs - the larger the bulb, the deeper the planting. Small bulbs should be planted deeply - and large bulbs should be planted deeply. It is recommended to pour clean dry sand on the bottom of the planting hole in a thin layer (up to 5 cm) - the sand will provide drainage and initial protection from decay.

When all the hyacinth bulbs have already been planted in the ground, pour rainwater on them. When it gets colder, insulate the area with hyacinths with covering material, foliage or spruce branches, sawdust, peat, especially in the case of a long absence of snow cover.